Jump to content
  • Sign Up
badguys

Cooler fan died on my computer. What do?

Recommended Posts

badguys
Posted (edited)

In February, my heatsink's fan croaked (it was only a matter of time).  I tried to replace it with a better fan, but it was shaking the heatsink and the motherboard (imagine waking up to the sound of "WHIRRRRRRR" im the early morning.  Not fun.).

Since then I replaced the cooler and fan once with a 1300rpm Noctua NF-P12 Redux over a BeQuiet Shadow Rock LP cooler.

Turning my computer on with this combination resulted in it refusing to boot reporting a "System fan error" after the logo in the BIOS primarily due to the fan being slower than the CPU fan speed low limit.

 

I currently placed a Noctua NF-A12X25 PWM case fan on that cooler and I haven't booted it up yet, so I am unsure of the result.

HNI-0016.jpg

My motherboard's currently the N-Alvorix-RS880-uATX  with an AMD Phenom II X6 1045T installed.  The fan I'm currently trying to find an equivalent for is a Foxconn PVA808G12Q that was stock with the HP's stock aluminium block.

Is the current cooling fan good, or is there any other ideas?

Edited by badguys

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Beave

Is there a way to set the minimum CPU fan speed in bios?

 

If not, since the CPU Fan is not PWM, then it should not matter.

 

I'd give it a try. Also, make sure the CPU is in correctly and a fresh coating of Thermal Paste has been applied.

 

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
badguys
Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, Beave said:

Is there a way to set the minimum CPU fan speed in bios?

 

If not, since the CPU Fan is not PWM, then it should not matter.

 

I'd give it a try. Also, make sure the CPU is in correctly and a fresh coating of Thermal Paste has been applied.

 

Firstly, there isn't much power adjustment settings in the BIOS (prebuilts from this time have that issue) and the chip's locked in properly.

Second, all two headers on this board aren't PWM.  If I were to use a PWM fan, it'll run full speed (or be DC controlled) based on info from Noctua, Cooler Master and other people.

The cooler's mounted correctly, and the coat of Arctic MX-4 had been there since the last time I turned it on.

Edited by badguys

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Beave

Also, make sure all motherboard power connectors are in all the way. I have seen where the power connectors will arc and may cause a fire.

 

Give it a try, it should work. Even so be ready to unplug the computer is anything goes awry.

 

If the computer beeps, listen to the code and look it up on the net.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
badguys
Posted (edited)
9 hours ago, Beave said:

Also, make sure all motherboard power connectors are in all the way. I have seen where the power connectors will arc and may cause a fire.

 

Give it a try, it should work. Even so be ready to unplug the computer is anything goes awry.

 

If the computer beeps, listen to the code and look it up on the net.

 

My power connectors never changed since I replaced the cooler.  The 4-pin CPU lead is not accessible when the cooler's on with my board, so that was the biggest concern in re-installation.  Same thing with the fan since I just mounted the new one and plugged it in without removing the cooler (that's the power of aftermarket coolers).

The only time I heard a beep is when the CMOS is cleared, making me think that the buzzer isn't set to beep if the POST passes.

Edited by badguys

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
sniper23

You can use an adapter to power the fan.

 

Vibrations might be a problem so you need a high quality fan.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
badguys
Posted (edited)
On 5/30/2020 at 6:34 AM, sniper23 said:

You can use an adapter to power the fan.

 

Vibrations might be a problem so you need a high quality fan.

I'm unsure that I need that since my 4+4 CPU power cable fits in that spot.  That's the one under the fins, by the way.  I can reach the fan cables, even with my phat hands.

Spoiler

If you're not already aware, HP's Alvorix motherboard has the power supply cable in an unusual spot.

20140415-HP_p6633w_620887-001_H-ALVORIX-RS880-uATX_4.jpg

I know that's a stock photo, but that's exactly my board, barring the new mount from my BeQuiet Shadow Rock LP cooler.

I now have a NF-A12x25 fan on the new CPU cooler (the Shadow Rock LP fits any 12cm fan) and an NF-A9 in the back of my chasis.  They're not Chromax, but I am not concerned about colour (it's in a solid aluminium [with plastic roof and front panel] case) anyway.

Edited by badguys

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
sniper23

There fan headers on the motherboard. I'm pretty sure your motherboard have some spares.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
badguys
25 minutes ago, sniper23 said:

There fan headers on the motherboard. I'm pretty sure your motherboard have some spares.

There's only two.  SYS_FAN1 (chasis) and CPU_FAN (heatsink).  I can access both, even with my fat hands.

It's that the 4-pin CPU power cable (PSU cable, not the fan) is under the heatsink's fins.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
sniper23
Posted (edited)

You can 

On 6/3/2020 at 6:32 PM, badguys said:

There's only two.  SYS_FAN1 (chasis) and CPU_FAN (heatsink).  I can access both, even with my fat hands.

It's that the 4-pin CPU power cable (PSU cable, not the fan) is under the heatsink's fins.

You can use something like this to double the fan slots.

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cable-Matters-2-Pack-2-Fan-Splitter/dp/B07QGXG5YG

 

connecting CPU fan cable to SYS_FAN1 wouldn't cause a problem except CPU fan error thing. The fan will work as it should be.

Edited by sniper23

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
badguys
Posted (edited)
21 hours ago, sniper23 said:

You can 

You can use something like this to double the fan slots.

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cable-Matters-2-Pack-2-Fan-Splitter/dp/B07QGXG5YG

 

connecting CPU fan cable to SYS_FAN1 wouldn't cause a problem except CPU fan error thing. The fan will work as it should be.

The cable is working on that fan header.

Both headers are working fine.  It's that the 4+4 ATX/EPS cable from the power supply (not the fan header, neither 3-pin header's not interfered with by the cooler) is being pressed down by the fins.  I don't think there are any extensions for ATX12V headers.

Not to mention, this is repairing a prebuilt that had the stock cooler's fan go bad, with me being unable to find a cooler of good price and quality before moving to my Be Quiet Shadow Rock LP and trying it with a 1300rpm Noctua P12 Redux fan, only for it to fail at boot (the box was torn when it arrived.  I should've been ready for the worst).  I have a Noctua A12x25  mounted on there now, but I haven't tested it yet.  It last worked with the Arctic P8 (3000rpm) on the CPU fan header before the stock cooler made a unbearable racket.

 

You're telling me about fan cables when my conundrum's with PSU cable clearance.  I don't think a PWM fan splitter fits on the ATX12V lead.

Edited by badguys

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Beave
badguys
Posted (edited)

Sorry for necroing this thread, but I noticed something else, I'm not sure if this'll be an issue.

The heatsink is over another heatsink.  It's passively cooled originally and I'm lead to believe that it is for the northbridge (HP installed this mainboard upside-down in the case) and has some space (2mm) in between the CPU cooler and the northbridge cooler.

Is there giong to be any effect here that I don't know about?

 

Also, here's some diagrams of the board from HP's support page.  My circut board's green, but has the same layout.

Photograph of motherboard

c02560812.gif

Edited by badguys

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
badguys

Sorry for the necro, but I have an update.

I tried the Noctua A12X25 on this cooler, and it ran but the system refused to boot stating "CPU fan failure".  I saw the fan spin up, so I'm aware that the system believes it's too slow (meaning that the fan's "life" is based on tachometer reception [and has a rather high minimum speed that has to be met] and not temperature as most generic motherboards would do).

Knowing that it once ran with 3000rpm fans last, I have a Noctua F12 iPPC-3000 on there now.  If this fails, then I might be forced to assemble a fresh motherboard.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...